outfitting of “The engine of fashion” exhibition, Leopolda station FI
(with G.Cavaglià, graphics I.Lupi)

“A book with the same title as the exhibition has anticipated it and gave it a framework, an effective synthesis of images, views and analysis about fashion – state Achille Castiglioni, Gianfranco Cavaglià and Italo Lupi in “Domus”, 1998, 803. This critical look at fashion was expressed in giant metaphorical images and texts rather than in a display of fashion items. The immaterial nature of the exhibits, created the necessity for a presentation of great symbolic simplicity. This took the form of a long path that a dramatic vista – 150 meters long by 7 meters high – lined with a series of large fabric panels that were vividly suspended and decorated with words and images”. Drapes suspended in the square outside the station signaled the arch that gave access to the exhibition. The display was laid out in a U shape around a dark-grey wall that masked the central load-bearing structure (also made of metal). It was lightened by an inscription running the full height of the interior, counterpointed at the top with small letters picked out in neon lighting and at the bottom by a number of monitors. To the right and left of the wall, the space was enclosed by partitions set obliquely, bearing montages of images and texts, reproduced on fabric raised by hoists on cables, braced on the ground at the back. These bent inwards to make the vista appear even longer. In the darkness of the great volume, the lighting was sharply focused on the hoardings, creating a contrast with the dark wall opposite. When the path reached the end of the vista it joined a star-shaped area leading into a room with five huge screens, a space for art films organized by Emi Fontana. At ground level, inclined planes held information panels, while backlit tables designed by Nancy Martin supplemented the narrative.